Vanturatoarea

All you need to know…

Info The name of this sector comes from the waterfall and means something like “Spirit of the wind”. The first 2 routes were bolted for a national competition back in 1996; however, for a long time there was no climbing there. Finally a team from Germany bolted 6 routes in 2009. The climbers from “Alternative” club started developing the sector and organized 3 HCO editions in 2010, 2013, and 2014. More then 100 routes were bolted, transforming Vanturatoarea into Herculane’s main climbing sector. The Petzl RocTrip was the next major event in which some hard projects were bolted. Most of these projects are waiting for the FA.
Access Drive from Herculane up the valley for 12 km until you spot a bridge on the left side.
Approach Walk-time 40-50 min. Start left of the 3 houses and follow the red cross.
StreetView Start here
Sun Morning.
Rain Most routes remain dry.
Water We do not recommend drinking from the waterfall, but there is a water source before crossing the bridge.
Family Long and difficult access for children.
Easy(<7a) 38
Medium 34
Hard(?8a) 13
Projects 27
Multi-pitch 1

The routes

Route NameGradeLengthDescription
Lolek6a15
Bolek6b15
Pescarulusl albastru7a+20
Agricultorul6a14
Bicefal stanga?15traseu usor dar neincercat
Bicefal dreapta5b20
ShortyProject12Short and bouldery, around 8a/+
Heads up7b15
The nest7a+15
4 anotimpuri7a18
Ploaie de primavara7a18
Illuminati7b18
Praf de stele6c+18
13 aprilie6a18
Dinamometric5b18
P.O.H.U.I6a+35
Do it yourself6c+35
Rachiu cu vai7a+35
Ice is nice7c35
Axis Mundi7b+35
Elements7b+35power-endurance climbing on crimps, couple of rests and a side dish of spicy boulder crux
Bulina7c35another vanturatoarea classic: long, sustained, crimpy
Cats8a35technical curx at the start
Dogs7c20nice bouldery crux
Choose right! left7b+25Are 2 variante.
Choose right! right7c25
Rusty nail8b+25Crimpy bouldery start, then power endurance
Guri Guri8b25The classic 8b. 8a(or 7B/+) start, and a 7c/+ to the top
Stone butterflyProject20
Viper Viper8a10Short and powerfull 8a until the intermediate anchor( a carabiner ).
Viper Viper ExtProject25After the 8a, you find a 7B+/7C boulder problem and a 7a+ finish, estimated around 8c+
SubrooferProject15
GaluscaProject15Not finished
Super humansProject15Power under the waterfall
InventivProject18Nu e f geru. Neincercat
Picaturi7a18
Piscaturi6b+12
No country for old men7bPure exposure over the waterfall
Pintea7b30
Kiss with a fist7a+30
Young and restless7c30
Triple Slap7c30sharp and technical
Top spin7c+30First Ascent: Bogdan Rus - 2010
Spike Connection7a+25
Fachirul7b+20sharp
Cottonmouth7c+30
Pokiu7c20
Pokiu ExtProject28
Dark knightsProject15
La placa6c+15
BraveProject15Until the roof, around 8a, untried
Brave and humbleProject30Open project around 8b+
Strength and honour8a+30Stay left and use the monos
Annapurna8a30Amenajat intial in 1996 de Sedevi Imre si reamenajat in 2010
First Ascent: Costel Tudosa - 2010
Explica-mi!8a+15 mFirst Ascent: Daniel Ungureanu - 2010
Pump Fiction8a25 mBouldery start, power endurance to the top
Kashmir8b+25FA by Cedric Lachat, 8b+/8c
SarabandaProject15Amenajat intial in 1996 de Sedevi Imre si reamenajat in 2010
BatacandaProject15
La Scuceala8a22 mScuceala (grai banatean)
adapost, protecţie
Primavara si cand ploua mult apar infiltratiile.
First Ascent: Sigi Putz - 2010
Joint Venture7a15
Masala7b12
Nucsoara7a15
Nucsoara ext7b3RLIt has 2 extensions, could be considered as a multipitch 6c+/6c/6c
Scortisoara6a+15
Scortisoara ext7a36
Turmenic6c+15
Daddy be cool6a15
Cardamon7b+38
Vegeta6a+15
Aqua forte6b
Aquq Forte extProject
Capra mica5a8
Capra mare5c10
Guano6a10
Ma friend6c+12
Cassiopeia5a10
Cloud Atlas5b10
Pisang5b10
Caru Mare510
Castor512
Pollux6a12
Y-grec6a+14
Black cat, white cat8a+32Recommended!
G Force7a+15
G Force ExtProject32
Beef Power7b+17powerfull
Air Force7c30powerfull
Blinded by the lightProject30around 8b+
Blinded by the light ExtProject
Mrs BabaProject30FA by Cedric Lachat, 8b/+
Mrs Baba ExtProject
TimisoaraProject
Timisoara ExtProject
Black Cobra8a+long moves with a mono
Black Cobra ExtProjectproject around 8c+/9a
Sky WalkerProject
Sky Walker ExtProject
AntigiroProject
Antigiro ExtProject
Legudovaran8a+30FA by Dani Andrada. To the second anchor is around 8b+ and to the top at least 8c+
Legudowaran Ext / Ext2Project2 extensions. To the second anchor is around 8b+ and to the top at least 8c+
Pleasure Lane6c+12nice
The Good Life6a+15
Joyride6b+15 m
Paradise City6b15 m
Guilty Pleasures5a15
Saxifraga6b+30 m
Sarampaul6b+30 mSarampau (In grai banatean) inseamna jgheab, vaioaga creata de viitura, viitura
Oua Rosii6a+20
Berbec6a45 mTraseul are 2 topuri (1 intermediar + 1 final)
Lacerta6a25 m
Tritonul6a20 m

 

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