All you need to know…
| Info | The name of this sector comes from the waterfall and means something like “Spirit of the wind”. The first 2 routes were bolted for a national competition back in 1996; however, for a long time there was no climbing there. Finally a team from Germany bolted 6 routes in 2009. The climbers from “Alternative” club started developing the sector and organized 3 HCO editions in 2010, 2013, and 2014. More then 100 routes were bolted, transforming Vanturatoarea into Herculane’s main climbing sector. The Petzl RocTrip was the next major event in which some hard projects were bolted. Most of these projects are waiting for the FA. | |
| Access | Drive from Herculane up the valley for 12 km until you spot a bridge on the left side. | |
| Approach | Walk-time 40-50 min. Start left of the 3 houses and follow the red cross. | |
| StreetView | Start here | |
| Sun | Morning. | |
| Rain | Most routes remain dry. | |
| Water | We do not recommend drinking from the waterfall, but there is a water source before crossing the bridge. | |
| Family | Long and difficult access for children. | |
| Easy(<7a) | 38 | |
| Medium | 34 | |
| Hard(?8a) | 13 | |
| Projects | 27 | |
| Multi-pitch | 1 |
The routes
| Route Name | Grade | Length | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lolek | 6a | 15 | |
| Bolek | 6b | 15 | |
| Pescarulusl albastru | 7a+ | 20 | |
| Agricultorul | 6a | 14 | |
| Bicefal stanga | ? | 15 | traseu usor dar neincercat |
| Bicefal dreapta | 5b | 20 | |
| Shorty | Project | 12 | Short and bouldery, around 8a/+ |
| Heads up | 7b | 15 | |
| The nest | 7a+ | 15 | |
| 4 anotimpuri | 7a | 18 | |
| Ploaie de primavara | 7a | 18 | |
| Illuminati | 7b | 18 | |
| Praf de stele | 6c+ | 18 | |
| 13 aprilie | 6a | 18 | |
| Dinamometric | 5b | 18 | |
| P.O.H.U.I | 6a+ | 35 | |
| Do it yourself | 6c+ | 35 | |
| Rachiu cu vai | 7a+ | 35 | |
| Ice is nice | 7c | 35 | |
| Axis Mundi | 7b+ | 35 | |
| Elements | 7b+ | 35 | power-endurance climbing on crimps, couple of rests and a side dish of spicy boulder crux |
| Bulina | 7c | 35 | another vanturatoarea classic: long, sustained, crimpy |
| Cats | 8a | 35 | technical curx at the start |
| Dogs | 7c | 20 | nice bouldery crux |
| Choose right! left | 7b+ | 25 | Are 2 variante. |
| Choose right! right | 7c | 25 | |
| Rusty nail | 8b+ | 25 | Crimpy bouldery start, then power endurance |
| Guri Guri | 8b | 25 | The classic 8b. 8a(or 7B/+) start, and a 7c/+ to the top |
| Stone butterfly | Project | 20 | |
| Viper Viper | 8a | 10 | Short and powerfull 8a until the intermediate anchor( a carabiner ). |
| Viper Viper Ext | Project | 25 | After the 8a, you find a 7B+/7C boulder problem and a 7a+ finish, estimated around 8c+ |
| Subroofer | Project | 15 | |
| Galusca | Project | 15 | Not finished |
| Super humans | Project | 15 | Power under the waterfall |
| Inventiv | Project | 18 | Nu e f geru. Neincercat |
| Picaturi | 7a | 18 | |
| Piscaturi | 6b+ | 12 | |
| No country for old men | 7b | Pure exposure over the waterfall | |
| Pintea | 7b | 30 | |
| Kiss with a fist | 7a+ | 30 | |
| Young and restless | 7c | 30 | |
| Triple Slap | 7c | 30 | sharp and technical |
| Top spin | 7c+ | 30 | First Ascent: Bogdan Rus - 2010 |
| Spike Connection | 7a+ | 25 | |
| Fachirul | 7b+ | 20 | sharp |
| Cottonmouth | 7c+ | 30 | |
| Pokiu | 7c | 20 | |
| Pokiu Ext | Project | 28 | |
| Dark knights | Project | 15 | |
| La placa | 6c+ | 15 | |
| Brave | Project | 15 | Until the roof, around 8a, untried |
| Brave and humble | Project | 30 | Open project around 8b+ |
| Strength and honour | 8a+ | 30 | Stay left and use the monos |
| Annapurna | 8a | 30 | Amenajat intial in 1996 de Sedevi Imre si reamenajat in 2010 First Ascent: Costel Tudosa - 2010 |
| Explica-mi! | 8a+ | 15 m | First Ascent: Daniel Ungureanu - 2010 |
| Pump Fiction | 8a | 25 m | Bouldery start, power endurance to the top |
| Kashmir | 8b+ | 25 | FA by Cedric Lachat, 8b+/8c |
| Sarabanda | Project | 15 | Amenajat intial in 1996 de Sedevi Imre si reamenajat in 2010 |
| Batacanda | Project | 15 | |
| La Scuceala | 8a | 22 m | Scuceala (grai banatean) adapost, protecţie Primavara si cand ploua mult apar infiltratiile. First Ascent: Sigi Putz - 2010 |
| Joint Venture | 7a | 15 | |
| Masala | 7b | 12 | |
| Nucsoara | 7a | 15 | |
| Nucsoara ext | 7b | 3RL | It has 2 extensions, could be considered as a multipitch 6c+/6c/6c |
| Scortisoara | 6a+ | 15 | |
| Scortisoara ext | 7a | 36 | |
| Turmenic | 6c+ | 15 | |
| Daddy be cool | 6a | 15 | |
| Cardamon | 7b+ | 38 | |
| Vegeta | 6a+ | 15 | |
| Aqua forte | 6b | ||
| Aquq Forte ext | Project | ||
| Capra mica | 5a | 8 | |
| Capra mare | 5c | 10 | |
| Guano | 6a | 10 | |
| Ma friend | 6c+ | 12 | |
| Cassiopeia | 5a | 10 | |
| Cloud Atlas | 5b | 10 | |
| Pisang | 5b | 10 | |
| Caru Mare | 5 | 10 | |
| Castor | 5 | 12 | |
| Pollux | 6a | 12 | |
| Y-grec | 6a+ | 14 | |
| Black cat, white cat | 8a+ | 32 | Recommended! |
| G Force | 7a+ | 15 | |
| G Force Ext | Project | 32 | |
| Beef Power | 7b+ | 17 | powerfull |
| Air Force | 7c | 30 | powerfull |
| Blinded by the light | Project | 30 | around 8b+ |
| Blinded by the light Ext | Project | ||
| Mrs Baba | Project | 30 | FA by Cedric Lachat, 8b/+ |
| Mrs Baba Ext | Project | ||
| Timisoara | Project | ||
| Timisoara Ext | Project | ||
| Black Cobra | 8a+ | long moves with a mono | |
| Black Cobra Ext | Project | project around 8c+/9a | |
| Sky Walker | Project | ||
| Sky Walker Ext | Project | ||
| Antigiro | Project | ||
| Antigiro Ext | Project | ||
| Legudovaran | 8a+ | 30 | FA by Dani Andrada. To the second anchor is around 8b+ and to the top at least 8c+ |
| Legudowaran Ext / Ext2 | Project | 2 extensions. To the second anchor is around 8b+ and to the top at least 8c+ | |
| Pleasure Lane | 6c+ | 12 | nice |
| The Good Life | 6a+ | 15 | |
| Joyride | 6b+ | 15 m | |
| Paradise City | 6b | 15 m | |
| Guilty Pleasures | 5a | 15 | |
| Saxifraga | 6b+ | 30 m | |
| Sarampaul | 6b+ | 30 m | Sarampau (In grai banatean) inseamna jgheab, vaioaga creata de viitura, viitura |
| Oua Rosii | 6a+ | 20 | |
| Berbec | 6a | 45 m | Traseul are 2 topuri (1 intermediar + 1 final) |
| Lacerta | 6a | 25 m | |
| Tritonul | 6a | 20 m |