All you need to know…
Info | “Cariera” (The Quarry), also known as the Feregari Gorge, is situated near Herculane’s bypass road. The first classic routes were put up in the 60’s. In the 80’s, the first sport climbing routes appeared, mainly on pegs. In 2011, for the 10th HCO edition, new routes were bolted and over 40 routes were rebolted making this sector popular once again. | |
Access | Take the road that goes around the town just above the football field. You will leave your car at a small Gypsy settlement or in front of a guesthouse, take the path straight through the Gypsy settlement, and, after passing the cottages, you will arrive at a spring with good water. From the spring, follow the the path further up the small dry valley and you will reach the gorges. | |
Approach | Walk-time 15-25 min. | |
Sun | The sector is on both sides of the gorge so you can enjoy both sun and shade all day long. | |
Rain | Routes get wet. | |
Water | Water spring on the way to the crag. | |
Family | Not the best but could be ok. | |
Easy(<7a) | 61 | |
Medium | 26 | |
Hard(?8a) | 3 | |
Projects | 5 | |
Multi-pitch | 20 |
The routes
Route Name | Grade | Length | Description |
---|---|---|---|
Vanessa | 4 | 2RL | |
Hornul din Zidul Chinezesc | ? | 2RL | FRTA 4B |
No Jump | 5b | 3m | Boulder on the path, right by the water spring |
Garam-Garam | 7b | 12 | |
Icar | 6b | 12 m | Rebolted: Andrei Simu 2011 |
A Bao A Qu | 7a | 12m | Rebolted: Andrei Simu 2011 Shares top with Paradoxul Blocajului |
Paradoxul Blocajului | 5c | 11m | Shares top with A Bao A Qu |
Hornul Bobocului | 6a | 3RL | grad FRTA 3B |
Cercetasul | ? | 3RL | FRTA 3B, A0 |
Miruna | 6b | 3RL | |
Private | 7a+ | 10m | Shares top with Skipper |
Skipper | 7b+ | 12m | Shares top with Private |
Rico | 7a+ | 12m | |
Kowalski | 7c | 12m | |
Visul Printesei | 6a+ | 10m | |
Strajerul | 6a | 10m | |
Solitarul | ? | 5RL | grad FRTA 3B |
Yok Problem | 7a | 20m | Rebolted: Adi Margea 2011 Shares top with Cok Problem. |
Cok Problem | 7a+ | 15m | Rebolted: Adi Margea 2011 Sahres top with Yok Problem. |
Archeopterix | 6b+ | 20m | Rebolted: Sorin Batran 2011 |
Myosotis | 6b | 15m | Rebolted: Romano Perini & Iulian Popa 2011 Shares top with Bestia. |
Bestia | 5c | 15m | Rebolted: Romano Perini & Iulian Popa 2011 |
Frumoasa | 6a | 15m | Rebolted: Anne-Marie Antoch 2011 |
Bluto | 6b+ | 15m | Rebolted: Anne-Marie Antoch 2011 |
Olive | 5b | 15m | Recommended for beginners |
Popeye | 6c+ | 15m | |
First Acces | 6b | 12m | Rebolted: Justin Ionescu 2011 |
Ersta | 5c | 10m | |
Recreatia Mare | 6a | 13m | Rebolted: Sorin Batran 2011 |
Vis de copil | 6a+ | 10m | Rebolted: Sorin Batran 2011 |
Vis de copil extensie | 6b+ | 17m | |
La rascruce de vanturi | 6a+ | ||
Noi vrem pamant | 5c | 14m | |
Levantica | 6a | 12m | Rebolted: Sorin Batran 2011 |
Andul | 7a | 15m | Rebolted: Adi Margea 2011 |
Paunul | 7a+ | 20m | Rebolted: Adi Margea 2011 |
Blade | Project | 6m | Boulder problem |
Giulesti | ? | ||
Mos Aurica | 6b+ | 25m | Rebolted: Alexandru Ceausescu 2011 |
Drumul Taberei | 7b | 25m | Rebolted: Andrei Preda 2011 |
Ara | ? | ||
Cacadu | ? | ||
Tangram | 5c | 10m | Rebolted: Adi Marcu 2011 |
Stalker | 6a+ | 10m | Rebolted: Anne-Marie Antoch 2011 |
Fluturasul | 7a | 15m | Rebolted: Ioan Preda 2011 |
No Way Jose | Project | 17m | |
LL Cool J | 8a | 17m | |
Body Count | 7c+ | 12m | |
Dune | 6a | 12m | Rebolted: Anne-Marie Antoch 2011 |
Creasta Vantului | 5b | 2RL | FRTA 3B |
Hornul Vantului | 5 | 2RL | FRTA 2B firt pitch on a chimney, second on vertical wall |
Doctorul | 6a+ | 2RL | FRTA 3B |
Chronologie | 6b | 25m | |
Sex cu Zeii | 6b | 23m | |
Poveste Fara Sfarsit | 6a | 23m | Rebolted: Cristi Tzecu 2011 |
Voyager | 5c | 23m | Version of "Poveste Fara Sfirsit", from the ledge, go right |
Fat Bottomed Girls | 5a | 8m | |
Maestrul coborarilor | 5a | 12m | |
Phoenix | 6b+ | 12m | Reamenajat: Dan Burcea Varianta 6+ prin dreapta |
Umbla Creanga | 7b | 10m | |
Talk About Your Life | 5b | 6m | |
Bjork | 7c | 23m | Rebolted: Andrei Preda 2011 Has chipped pockets. |
Planul cel mare | 8a | 30m | |
Soboru | 7a | 13m | Rebolted: Andrei Preda 2011, also has an extension |
Soboru extension | 7b+ | 30m | |
Mutulica | 6c | 15m | Rebolted: Andrei Preda 2011 has an extension |
Mutulica extension | 7b | 30m | |
Badica | 6b | 17m | Rebolted: Alexandru Ceausescu 2011 |
Abra-cadabrrra! | 8a+ | 20m | Rebolted: Alexandru Ceausescu 2011 Chipped holds FA: Silviu Corciovei - Mai 2011 |
Liliacul | ? | 3RL | FRTA 4Aa> |
Rapii | 6a | 2RL | Protected by old pegs |
Iepurasul | 5c | 2lc | FRTA 4B Belay points were equipped with bolts in 2010 by Cosmin Codru and Octavia Codru. |
Autodafe | 7a | 60m | Rebolted: Andrei Preda 2011 |
Maria | 6c | 3RL | First pitch rebolted by Alexandru Ceausescu 2011 |
Pain is temporary | 7c+ | ||
Glory lasts forever | 7b+ | ||
Just Do It | Project | 20m | Link between "Weekend Warrior" and after the roof continues with "Glory lasts forever". Emil Danila started to equip the line in 2002 and was finished in 2011 by Andrei Preda. |
Loola | 5b | 10m | Traseu de acces pentru traseele "Weekend Warrior" si "Glory lasts forever". Are top propriu. |
Weekend warrior | Project | ||
Uneori moralul | 6a+ | 27m | |
Nedeia | 5c | 3RL | FRTA 4A |
Caporalul | 6c+ | 3RL | |
Parerea lui Marius | 5b | 22m | Right of Nedeia. |
Fara Epoleti | 6b | 12m | Rebolted: Adi Margea 2011 |
Feet Your Wear | 7c | 12m | Rebolted: Ioan Preda 2011 |
Creasta Capitanului | 5a | 4RL | FRTA 4A
A classic, probably the most repeated multipitch in Herculane. First pitch starts with a 12m a dihedral with a crack, then keep al little bit to the right and follow the pitons. Second pitch starts left of the belay point(a pine) and consists of easy climbing following the piton line, slightly to the right, until ou reach the ledge with the belay point. Third pitch starts with a crack around 5c, keep a little bit to the right until you reach the big pine, used as belay point. Forth pitch starts left of the belay, up a vertical crack, around 5c and climbs to the top of the wall. Rappel on the other side of the wall, use the pines as belay points, a 50m rope is enough. |
Hungry Daze | 6a+ | 10m | Reamenajat: Adi Margea 2011 |
Curcubeu de vara | 7b+ | 12m | |
Mere Albe | 7a | 15m | Reamenajat: Marius Visnyei 2011 |
Trecatorul | 6c+ | 12m | Rebolted: Rares Micsa 2011 |
Pluto | 6a+ | 3lc | |
fara nume dreapta de Pluto | 7b+ | 15m | Reamenajat : Ioan Preda 2011 |
De Ce? | 7a | 2lc | |
Strunga Sanzienelor | 6a+ | 4RL | FRTA 4B |
Gratis Ba! | 6b+ | 25m | |
Goofy | 6b | 2RL | |
Apollo | 6c+ | 25m | |
Reptila | 5b | 2RL | FRTA 4B |
Leucemia | 6c | 2RL | |
Heroin | 6c | 2RL | |
Lacusta | 6b | 1lc | |
Radiohead | Project | 20m | all chipped |