The route Guri Guri was the first 8b at the Vânturatoarea(waterfall) sector and quickly became a classic. After the starting jug broke, the initial boulder that was estimated at around 7B+ has become considerably harder, at around 8A.
In 06.2018, Czech climber Denis Pail made the FA of Guri Guri reloaded, committing and risking a ground fall. He registered his ascent as 8c on the 8a.nu scorecard “6.GO, 8b+/8c, FA after broken hold at the beginning, maybe 8c???”.
On his trip he repeated 24 Karate(8a), Cats(8a), Viper Viper(8a), Arista(8a+), Rusalii(8b), Black Cobra(8b) and Rusty Nail(8b+). ?
After HCO2016, this year’s winner, Bogdan Rus remained a few more days to finish some unfinished business.
He managed the First Ascent of the Kashmir project at Vanturatoarea sector. He graded the route 8b+/8c meaning its one of Hercualne’s biggest challenges.
Great job Bogdan! More projects are waiting!
George Stancescu made the FA of Kraft Automat extension, suggesting 8b+. It’s a steep, 30m long power endurance test-piece, bolted by Adrian Margea for the HCO2015 competition. It’s now the hardest route from the Magnolia sector, but there are some harder projects waiting for the FA.
Bogdan Rus climbed the route “Rusty Nail” at Vanturatoarea sector in Herculane. He is the first Romanian climber who nailed the test-piece! This is also the hardest route ever climbed by a Romanian in the Cerna Valley. The route was originally bolted by Gerhard Hornhager for the Petzl RocTrip and has been ascended 4 times by the following climbers: Mike Fuselier, Gerome Pouvreau, Enzo Oddo, and Markus Jung.
For thirteen years straight, it was the date of the country’s main climbing competition, HCO.
However, due to logistic and meteorological reasons, HCO was moved to September. Still, every passionate Romanian rock-climber knows that May 1st is the day the community will be present in the Cerna Valley. We hope that climbing on May 1st will remain a tradition and a national gathering of our climbing community. See you there!
HerculaneClimbing.ro aims to be a complete guide for climbers that come to Herculane. We try to keep it updated as possible. We also are happy if we receive your feedback so that other climbers can benefit from your experience.
One interesting point is the collective blog, where we try to publish/repost all blog posts regarding the climbers experiences in Herculane. So we are happy if you share the story of your trip in Herculane!
Lately more foreign climbers come to Herculane. most of them come because Petzl RocTrip was here, they saw the photos, the movie and yes, it’s worth a visit. We are happy that also strong climbers come, recently we met german top climber, Markus Jung.
He flashed Viper-Viper(8a) and did Black Cobra(8a+/8b), Guri-Guri(8b) and Rusty Nail(8b+) all second go, after which he decided to try some projects. Between others, he tried the extension of Viper-Viper and described it like a 8a, into a 3 move 7B+/7C, another hard crimp and a 7b+ to the top, summing around 8c+. Let’s see who will grab the first ascent.