Guri Guri Reloaded

Guri Guri Reloaded

The route Guri Guri was the first 8b at the Vânturatoarea(waterfall) sector and quickly became a classic. After the starting jug broke, the initial boulder that was estimated at around 7B+ has become considerably harder, at around 8A.
In 06.2018, Czech climber Denis Pail made the FA of Guri Guri reloaded, committing and risking a ground fall. He registered his ascent as 8c on the 8a.nu scorecard “6.GO, 8b+/8c, FA after broken hold at the beginning, maybe 8c???”.

On his trip he repeated 24 Karate(8a), Cats(8a), Viper Viper(8a), Arista(8a+), Rusalii(8b), Black Cobra(8b) and Rusty Nail(8b+).
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It was the last day, almost dark. The project was done and probably everybody would have called it a day. Adam repeated the crux a few more times for some photos, removed the quickdraws, didn’t even take off his climbing shoes and went for the on-sight of the route to the left, Rusty Nail(8b+). And he did it!

On the 5-th day he had a plane to catch in Timisoara, but he could still force 2-3 hours of climbing in the morning. Over-motivated like nobody else, he tried 2 dry projects. He on-sighted Catch-up(8b) and climbed 2-go the short Airamana project(8c+). He untied and ran to the car to catch his flight.

Many strong 9a climbers visited Herculane, but non of them was so inspiring. Strong and humble, motivated and passionate, relaxed and with a powerful mind, this is Adam Ondra.

PS: He told us that he had a great time and he will return.  Vanturatoarea wall is amazing and there are too many projects waiting to be climbed 🙂

Bogdan Rus climbed “Rusty Nail” 8b+

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Bogdan Rus climbed the route “Rusty Nail” at Vanturatoarea sector in Herculane. He is the first Romanian climber who nailed the test-piece! This is also the hardest route ever climbed by a Romanian in the Cerna Valley. The route was originally bolted by Gerhard Hornhager for the Petzl RocTrip and has been ascended 4 times by the following climbers: Mike Fuselier, Gerome Pouvreau, Enzo Oddo, and Markus Jung.

Good job Bogdan, Venga!

May 1st is a special day for Romania’s climbing community.

Geaorge StroieFor thirteen years straight, it was the date of the country’s main climbing competition, HCO.
However, due to logistic and meteorological reasons, HCO was moved to September. Still, every passionate Romanian rock-climber knows that May 1st is the day the community will be present in the Cerna Valley. We hope that climbing on May 1st will remain a tradition and a national gathering of our climbing community. See you there!

New site for climbers visiting Herculane

New-Website-LaunchHerculaneClimbing.ro aims to be a complete guide for climbers that come to Herculane. We try to keep it updated as possible. We also are happy if we receive your feedback so that other climbers can benefit from your experience.

One interesting point is the collective blog, where we try to publish/repost all blog posts regarding the climbers experiences in Herculane. So we are happy if you share the story of your trip in Herculane!

Mike Fuselier – Petzl Roc Trip – Herculane

Repost from Mikes Blog

Baile Herculane est une des plus ancienne station thermale d’Europe, la légende raconte qu’Hercule lui même y aurait vécu. Les eaux minérales de la station Baile-Herculane ont été découvertes et exploitées par les soldats des légions romaines qui ont conquis l’ancienne Dacie.

 

Bref, après cette minute culturelle, plongeons nous dans le vif du sujet et direction Vanturatoarea. Cette falaise offre différents profils, du long, du court, du facile et du teigneux, il y en a pour tout le monde.

Pour ce qui est des croix, ça n’a pas trainé !

Aprés avoir flashé Black cat, white cat 8a+ et Guri-Guri 8b, je me suis offert la « First Ascent » de Rusty Nail 8b+.
Et oui, après avoir fait 2 mois de canyon, j’avais les crocs qui rayaient le parquet…

Les copains n’ont pas mis bien longtemps à s’en mettre également plein la musette et Cedric Lachat s’envoie la First Ascent de Mrs Baba 8b+.
à noter également la belle perf de Flo Pinet qui a Flashé: Guri-Guri.

Plus à l’aise en escalade qu’en tricot, Florence réalise Black cat, White Cat.

Guri-Guri, avec un départ bien « saignant ».

 

Et pour clôturer cette étape en beauté, nous avons eu droit à la traditionnelle bringue du Petzl roc trip. la pluie s’étant invité, on avait l’impression de vivre un semblant de woodstock !!
à noter que si vous êtes sur un évenement Petzl et qu’il n’y a pas de Fiesta à la fin, il y a des chances que ce soit un fack …

 

La première étape se termine et maintenant direction Vratsa en Bulgarie.

Nina Caprez – Petzl Roc Trip – Herculane

Words and photos by Nina Caprez, repost from arcteryx.com blog

I left my apartment in Grenoble, France for about two months and I had no idea what to expect. I traveled east to join the Petzl Roc Trip caravan headed to Romania. I don’t usually travel east to climb, but I loved the idea of discovering new countries, cultures and new climbing areas.

Together with our French friends and team members, we finally arrived in Romania and the village of Baile Herculane. One of the first things we noticed was the difference between gypsies and Romanians. We had always had this idea that all people from Romania are on the road, which is not true. But, it was so fun to see how the real Romanian-gypsies live their life by the road.

The valley of the Baile Herculane is an amazing place and a great climbing area. To start off our trip, we hiked about an hour to reach a huge cliff along side a beautiful waterfall.

I had almost forgotten about the Roc Trip vibe, because the last one I went on was about three years ago in China. There are so many climbers and everyone just wants to get out and climb. It took a bit to get used to all the people in the beginning of the trip because I had spent my whole summer almost alone in the mountains of Picos de Europa. Now, I was climbing on a cliff along with 200 others!

During the first three days of climbing I felt really weak and was struggling to get back in form. I was still feeling the effects of traveling in my legs. After such a long break from rock climbing, I was little uncomfortable. But, Roc Trip means climbing! Who cares what level you are at, it’s all about enjoying new routes with the people around you and the opportunity to travel while doing what you love.

Baile Herculane is also famous for his hot springs and since we were here, we couldn’t miss a chance to experience them. We had the chance to meet one gypsy who lives in one of the tunnels where the 50 degree hot water comes out…ha! This was not easy to watch, but at least he won’t freeze during the winter! 😉

The roads in Serbia, Romania and Bulgaria are well known for being harsh on vehicles. As well as being a top climber, it’s just as important to be a world-class pilot: there are so many huge holes in the roads that you feel like you are in a video game.

Unfortunately, Gérome Pouvreau found one of the holes in the road.  Lucky he had only dented a rim and somehow with some heavy hammering the rim was repaired and we were on our way…

Romanian’s like to have a good time after climbing. The base camp was full of food, beer and souvenir stands – a whole party area. We had the chance to try all the delicious food and were impressed with the local games and concerts.

We have now crossed the border and I’m ready to discover Bulagria during the next ten days….

More climbers come to Herculane

Markus Jung
Markus Jung

Lately more foreign climbers come to Herculane. most of them come because Petzl RocTrip was here, they saw the photos, the movie and yes, it’s worth a visit. We are happy that also strong climbers come, recently we met german top climber, Markus Jung.

He flashed Viper-Viper(8a) and did Black Cobra(8a+/8b), Guri-Guri(8b) and Rusty Nail(8b+) all second go, after which he decided to try some projects. Between others, he tried the extension of Viper-Viper and described it like a 8a, into a 3 move 7B+/7C, another hard crimp and a 7b+ to the top, summing around 8c+. Let’s see who will grab the first ascent.